biography and memoir, podcasts, travel

Fiona Sampson on Limestone Country


W H Auden wrote:

when I try to imagine a faultless love
Or the life to come, what I hear is the murmur
Of underground streams, but what I see is a limestone landscape

Fiona Sampson too hears the murmur of underground streams. She describes at the start of her recent book Limestone Country the shock, the epiphany, of realising that most of her favourite places were made from, and in and on, limestone: a cottage in West Oxfordshire; a hamlet in Périgord in southern France; the Karst region of western Slovenia; the city of Jerusalem.

She writes:

‘Really living in these landscapes means paying radical attention to how they behave. It means knowing their wildlife as well as ways of farming, observing how water and vegetation respond to the mineral facts of rock and soil as much as how humans live in and with them.’

Responding ‘to the mineral facts’ – that might be a good way of thinking about her book. When I met Fiona earlier this year, I was keen to hear more about her sensitivity to the geology beneath her feet.

Seventeen years ago I moved to the west of Oxfordshire, where that county meets Gloucestershire and Wiltshire, and found myself living for the first time in a limestone landscape. Our home was built of the curiously friable local stone. The same stone lay everywhere in the furrows of the fields around us. Twice a year, ploughing turned up chunks that were chock-full of fossils, a tangible reminder of how we rose out of the sea, are seven-tenths water – and will probably eventually be resubmerged by our own environmental wilfulness. Our old farmworker’s cottage was about as far inland as it’s possible to get in Britain; yet we lived at sea-level, where every spring the water rose higher in the ditches and lay for longer in the fields.

This misty waterland is just one kind of limestone country…

Limestone Country is published by Little Toller Books; their website is well worth exploring.